Vintage Jewellery Picks: Art Deco Rings and How to Identify Them

Most people like to be a trendsetter or be seen as fashion forward. But sometimes old pieces that were popular many moons ago can make their comebacks once again. One particular style of antique jewellery that is getting a lot of interests lately is the Art Deco style rings - as seen on Cressida Brondas' engagement ring. Its abstract designs and geometric patterns in contrasting colours easily makes itself stand out among antique jewellery styles.

The Art Deco movement was a popular style that began in the mid-1920s, continuing throughout the 1930s.  Jewellery produced during this period are considered as antiques and as such bear significant value. But how could you identify an authentic Art Deco diamond rings from other antique rings?

First, you must be familiar with antique jewellery. For any item to qualify as an antique, the age of the item is the principal criterion. Appraisers continue to debate on the length of time necessary for such a label, with some declaring that the item must be at least 100 years old and others stating a more lenient age of at least 50 years old. Art Deco rings are now over 50 years old, approaching a century in just a few more years.

There are rings that look like antique pieces but are actually not, so be extra careful with your purchases. Check to see if these items are marked as reproductions or are modern rings designed to look a lot like antiques. If you want to be sure about the authenticity of antique jewellery, make sure that you are dealing with reputable antique dealers who can assist you in identifying authentic antiques. You can also consult qualified appraisers and gemologists for accuracy of dates to know which design period your ring belongs to.

Here are some characteristics that can help establish the age of a ring:

1. Motif - The overall style of a ring is a spot-on identifier of age. The symbolisms, the choice of embellishments, the lines and patterns on the ring reflect the spirit of the times when it was first produced. Significant events, whether historical or cultural, can also influence motif.
2. Gem Cutting Styles - With the advancements in techniques and resources, gem cutting styles also progress and change with the different time periods. The gem facet styles and the shapes of cut gemstones can help pinpoint which era the antique engagement ring belongs to.
3. Popular Gemstones - Different gemstones became available at different periods in history, and their popularity as ring stones tend to follow colour and fashion trends. For example, diamonds on engagement rings were non-existent until the Renaissance. The first of which is Archduke Maximilian of Austria’s betrothal ring for Mary of Burgundy in 1477.
4. Metal Used - The types of metals used or the combinations used to create the ring can also help date a jewellery piece.

Art Deco Jewellery

Art Deco rings are currently considered as the most popular antique engagement rings. These are also the most abundant styles in the market. You might be wondering how could you tell if they are  authentic Art Deco engagement ring? Here are a few things to consider:

1. Motif - Popular motifs are from nature, such as the sun, animals, trees, and nudes. Egyptian, African, Oriental, and American Indian art influenced their designs and enamel accents were widely used. Bold geometric patterns and colours were also in style during this period.
2. Gem Cutting Styles - A distinctive characteristic of Art Deco rings is its choice of intricate cuts, ranging from Old European to calibre cuts.
3. Popular Gemstones - Diamonds were huge hits during the Art Deco era, but other precious gemstones such as emerald, sapphire and ruby were also used.
4. Metal Used - Majority of jewellery made in the Art Deco era were fashioned in either platinum or white gold. In fact, white gold was first introduced at around 1915, bumping yellow gold down the popularity scale. Plus, in the late 1920s, jewellers had perfected the art of filigree, which made it another feature typical of Art Deco jewellery.

Follow the above tips and they should help you spot an authentic Art Deco jewellery piece to start your collection.


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